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January
16, 2008
Mexican
Deaths
The
Failure of the International
Press
by Fred Reed
I don't like to be unduly critical of the media,
having some connection with them, but enough is
enough. Particularly they fail to cover Latin
America well, as evidenced by their inattention to
what has been going on here in Central Mexico.
I live on the shores of Lake Chapala, the
largest lake in Mexico, roughly on the latitude of
Mexico City but to the west. The region is fairly
heavily populated with several towns along the
northern shore -- Chapala, Ajijic, San Juan Cosala,
and Jocotepec. The lake is too contaminated for
swimming, but is an attraction for the many North
Americans who retire here. It's a tranquil place.
Nothing happens here. Usually.
Just over a year ago, a rumor spread that dogs
were disappearing. (No, I don't think that
vanishing dogs in Central Mexico warrant
international media coverage. Wait.) No big deal, I
thought. Rumors abound in most places. Dogs wander
off. When Mexicans tire of an animal, they are
likely to dump it miles away in the countryside. If
the neighbors weary of its barking, they will
sometimes poison it, whereupon it crawls off and
dies in the hills. In short, a missing dog is not
news.
But they kept disappearing.
One day little Pablo Perez, the six-year-old son
of the woman who ran the taco stand Saturdays on
Ajijic's plaza, was walking his pooch along the
shore of the lake. The kid was at least borderline
retarded, but he was a familiar sight around town.
I saw him occasionally and gave him a couple of
pesos for candy. Anyway -- I got this third-hand at
Tom's Bar and so didn't give it much credence --
Pablo apparently came running home, sobbing,
without his dog.
His mother was quoted as saying that Pablo had
said, "Mi perro! Mi perro! La lagartija se lo
comio!" My dog, my dog, the lizard ate it. Which
was absurd. A lagartija is about six inches long.
And Pablito wasn't quite right in the head. The dog
was gone, however.
A writer for El Ojo del Lago came and
asked perfunctory questions. El Ojo is the local
freeby cage-liner that exists to sell real estate.
It is distinguished chiefly by having the worst
writing in Western Christendom. Maybe it counts as
press. Barely.
For some time nothing else happened. Pablito
returned to normal, though he said he didn't want
another dog. For a while he refused to go near the
lake, but got over this too. At Tom's conversation
went back to football and NASCAR. So far, the
business of vanishing dogs was just small-town
chatter.
Mexicans, the lower classes anyway, are on the
superstitious side and began keeping their dogs
away from the lake as best they could. Whether they
really believed that something untoward was
happening along the shore, I don't know. They enjoy
believing in the garish and frightening, as for
example the Chupacabras, the Goat Sucker, that was
supposed to be draining the blood from goats in
Puerto Rico.
The Chupacabras began to appear prominently in
grocery=store newspapers in San Juan. Then there
were TV specials reporting sighting of space aliens
with huge red eyes who, by implication, were
Chupacabras. The same thing happened with the
Narcosatanicos of northern Mexico, who also didn't
exist, which didn't bother the Mexicans at all.
Then Pablito disappeared.
He had gone for his usual walk along the lake,
his mother said, and hadn't come back. At first,
nobody was greatly upset. Kids disappear all the
time, and show up at a friend's house, watching
television. But Pablito didn't come back. The
affair was no longer funny.
The towns along the lake don't have real police,
just traffic cops who will get your cat out of the
tree if need be. Small towns are not hotbeds of
crime. At any rate the locals had no capacity to
investigate the genuine disappearance of a
child.
Some real cops came in from Guadalajara. It
wasn't really their jurisdiction, but somebody had
to find that kid.
They talked to people, heard about the vanishing
dogs, and came up with an ugly but disagreeably
plausible suspicion. Serial killers are not common
in little burgs if only for statistical reasons,
but they exist in Mexico as much as anywhere. The
Matomoros murders are an example. The killers often
begin as young kids by killing animals before
moving on to bigger game, so to speak. Jeffry
Dahmer murdered dogs. The cops began asking about
young men who seemed odd. The case began to get
national if sensational coverage.
Then Elisa Gonzalez, who tended bar at La Barca,
another local watering hole, didn't come home one
night. This time, however, there was a break,
though hardly a welcome one. A fisherman found a
bloody woman's shoe on the shore, next to some
curious tracks that scared him witless. He ran to
the police station on the plaza with the news. The
Guadalajara detectives came to look.
There were indeed strange clawed tracks, and
slither marks leading to the water. The detectives
were baffled. If it had happened in the hills, a
rare big cat might have done it, though they were
thought extinct. This made no sense at all. At this
point I got interested, told the cops that I had
been a police reporter in the States, and would
they keep me apprised. Sure, they said.
A retired zoologist, Dr. William Kemper, lived
in one of the gated gringo enclaves hereabouts. He
asked to see the tracks and pronounced them
unmistakably those of a huge alligator. This also
made no sense. There are no alligators in the
region, and never have been. I would have said the
climate was wrong for them, but I'm no alligator
expert. The idea was nuts, zoologist or no.
The Mexican press went crazy with florescent
national coverage, mostly inaccurate. The US
ignored it. I'll bet you have never heard of the
case.
Some reptilologists, if that is a word, flew in
from the University of Florida. One of them, Jim
Reznick, read "Fred on Everything" -- it always
surprises me when that happens -- so I had an in.
He said nothing made sense. Except that a gringo
had brought a small pet alligator, which are sold
in Guatemala as souvenirs, and released it in the
lake. But that didn't explain the size. And anyway,
nobody had actually seen the beast. Nobody alive,
anyway.
He said something about somatic-cell
holomutation brought on by the contaminants in the
lake, but looked doubtful. This was near science
fiction, and he knew it.
So that's where it stands. I'm going out
tomorrow in a launch to see if I can find a trace
of the creature, but frankly I don't believe it
exists. But then -- what ate Pablito?
Reed
Archive
Copyright 2008 by Fred Reed and reproduced here by
permission of the author.
About
the Author (by the author):
Fred Reed is a Marine combat veteran, police
reporter, amateur biochemist, former long-haul
hitchhiker, and part-time sociopath living in
Mexico. Fred, a keyboard mercenary with a
disorganized past, has worked on staff for Army
Times, The Washingtonian, Soldier of Fortune,
Federal Computer Week, and The Washington
Times. He has been published in Playboy,
Soldier of Fortune, The Wall Street Journal, The
Washington Post, Harper's, National Review, Signal,
Air&Space, and suchlike. He has worked as a
police writer, technology editor, military
specialist, and authority on mercenary soldiers. He
is by all accounts as looney as a tune.
Visit the "Fred
on Everything" website to read his previous
columns and sign up for his regular e-mail
feature.
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The essays in A Brass Pole in
Bangkok, are sometimes wildly funny,
sometimes deadly serious, always merciless
in their unmasking of the pretenses and
charlatans of society. Fred, a former
Marine, subscribes to no ideology ("an
ideology is just a systematic way of
misunderstanding the world") but
exuberantly wreaks havoc on practically
everything, and delights in everything
else: the psychotherapy swindle, squalling
feminists, race racketeers, damn fool
wars, red-light districts in Asia, and
tequila fests in Mexico, where he
lives.
A
Brass Pole in Bangkok: A Thing I Aspire To
Be, by Fred Reed
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Buy Fred's new reprehensible book,
Nekkid In Austin! Another
collection of Fred's collected outrages,
irresponsible ravings, and curmudgeonry
from "Fred On Everything" and some
innocent magazines that, he says,
foolishly published him. Wildly funny,
sometimes wacky, always provocative essays
on the collapse of America.
Nekkid
in Austin: Drop Your Inner Child Down a
Well, by Fred Reed
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